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The Hawaiian Islands have a rich and valuable indigenous culture that survives today as seen in the hula, surfing, chanting, and lei making. Hawaiians created exquisite shell jewelry using Kahelelani shells and many others. These jewels from the sea are still collected and strung together in the same manner the ancient Hawaiians employed.
Puka shells, or top Cone shells, are commonly used in Hawaiian shell jewelry as clasps. They are also used in the creation of lei making. The Puka shells vary in color. The word Puka means hole and refers to the naturally occurring hole in the middle of the shell.
Collecting shells is fun but also very time consuming and laborious. Most of the time, you will find shells at the shoreline. Maybe 1 out of 50 you will want to keep. You will need a pair of tweezers to pick the shells up individually from the sand. Yep, one by one. Shelling is seasonal, you need the perfect time of year, and you must check the tide before you head to the beach to collect these shells. To make a single strand lei, in traditional herringbone style, you will need approximately 17 shells to create each inch.
Prepping the puka in the shells is another step that is time consuming. First you must remove all of the sand and that is not as easy as it sounds. To properly poke the shells, you will need the right tool and you must poke the hole in exactly the right place. After you have completed these steps, now it's time to have some fun as you string the shells together creating your very own masterpiece!
Quality and imperfect shells?
How to select a Hawaiian shell lei:
When it comes to Kahelelani shell leis, there are five main aspects that determine the overall worth of a piece.
1. Color: The shells in a perfect lei have been diligently sorted for color. If the desired style is monochromatic, then the shells should be matched as close as possible. For instance, if a necklace is to be pure burgundy, then no common brownish shells should be present to detract from the overall appeal of the burgundy. In a mixed color style piece, the color combinations should complement each other to maximize the beauty of each color.
2. Luster: Natural shell luster is a crucial feature when shopping for a shell lei. Shells that shine with a brilliant luster, similar to pearls, are the most sought after and attractive. Kauai shells traveled far from Niihau and they lose some luster along the way. The shells of highest luster come directly, by boat, from Niihau.
3. Flaws: Each individual shell should be near flawless. This means it should be free of chips and cracks. Often the Kahelelani shell has holes created from an octopus feeding on the tiny creature that lived inside the shell. Shells should also be free of debris and grains of sand and no life should be taken in this process. If you find a shell with life inside, please place it back into the ocean.
4. Size: The most exquisite pieces are made with a uniform size or unique taper which helps create symmetry within the lei. Leis made from the smaller Kahelelani shells are extremely difficult to make, thus making them more valuable, more collectable and of course, more expensive.
5. Craftsmanship: The quality of craftsmanship should be visibly apparent. The shells should be pierced in exactly the same place on each shell to ensure a smooth transition between the shells. The thread itself should not be visible between the Kahelelani shells. Also, when placed correctly, the shells will form a tight-fitting pattern that will prevent the shells from turning and upsetting the overall style of the piece. Such technique also adds durability to the overall creation. I hope this information was helpful to you and mahalo for visiting ShellsHawaii.com! Please contact me should you have any questions or require any further information.
Aloha,
Janjira!