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Welcome back, everyone!
I hope you’re still with me after learning about Single Pikake, Double Pikake and Double-Double Pikake… haha! Today, we’re moving into a completely different world — a style that’s round, strong, and full of personality. This is Lei Kui Poepoe, the classic Poepoe (Round) sewing style of Niʻihau shell jewelry (ニイハウ シェル ジュエリー).
Many of you have seen Niʻihau shell jewelry created in the Poepoe style and wondered how it’s made. I remember feeling the same way when I first started. Back then, there wasn’t much guidance or instruction available, so I learned through trial, patience, and many mistakes along the way.
Poepoe Style Niʻihau Shell Jewelry: The Design Everyone Wants to Try
So, what is Poepoe style?
Poepoe style in Niʻihau shell jewelry refers to a rounded, rope-like design created by tying multiple strands of shells together, or by twisting and weaving the strands with additional string so they stay securely in place as the pattern forms.
Unlike flat styles such as herringbone (mauʻaloa style), Poepoe has a full, dimensional look — soft, balanced, and alive with movement.
The final appearance depends on the number of strands used, how they are tied or woven, and how evenly the shells line up as the piece comes together. In twisted Poepoe styles — such as two-, three-, or four-strand designs — extra string is used to weave the shells so the twist holds its shape. This technique requires very accurate hole placement, closely matched shells, and a lot of practice. Even with instructions, it can take years of experience to truly understand and create this style successfully.
Because of this, even small adjustments — in poking, shell selection, or tension — can completely change the look and feel of the finished design. This is why the four-strand tied Poepoe style is often my first recommendation. It’s a little more forgiving and allows you to focus on understanding the structure and flow before moving on to more advanced techniques.
The earrings shown in above pictures are available in my shop as item #2627, if you’d like to take a closer look.
Some Poepoe variations — such as two-, three-, or four-strand twisted styles — are shown here to give you a visual sense of how the design changes as the strands twist and tighten. Each variation creates a different rhythm and structure, even when the same shells and technique are used.
✨ The earrings and pendant shown below are created in the two-strand twisted Poepoe style. We’ll explore this technique together in an upcoming blog, so stay tuned.
✨This is how the three-strand poepoe style looks — full, rounded, and so beautiful with Kahelelani shells. We’ll learn more about creating this three-strand design in a future blog, so please stay tuned.
If you’d like to see finished earrings made in the three-strand poepoe style, you can click the item code #2635 or #2636
✨Here’s the four-strand twisted poepoe style — one of the fullest and most beautiful variations of poepoe. Please stay tuned, as we’ll explore this design more in an upcoming blog.
How to Create the Poepoe Style (Beginner-Friendly Guide)
Four strands — just like it sounds — you need four strands to create this Poepoe style. Let’s start with something simple, like earrings.
Measure two strings and fold them in half. Where the folded centers meet, tie a small knot to secure them.
This creates four working strands, ready to begin.
Add one shell to one of the opposite strands, slide it down, and tie a small knot.
Then repeat:
add a shell → tie a knot → add a shell → tie a knot,
until you reach the length you prefer.
If you’d like to give this technique a try, I do offer loose shell supplies with full instructions on how to create this poepoe style. It’s a great way to begin learning the foundation of authentic Hawaiian jewelry (ハワイアンジュエリー)
This simple method gives you the feel of poepoe without the complexity of the twisted styles.
The Common Thread Problem
So why does this happen? Here are the usual culprits:
• Shell size differences. Even carefully sorted Kahelelani aren’t identical; tiny size changes can leave small gaps.
• Poking angle. A slightly tilted or off-center hole keeps shells from sitting flush.
• Thread tension. Too loose = gaps; too tight = cracked shells.
• Pearl/connector spacing. A high or wide drill hole can create spacing where thread peeks out.
This is something every maker of handmade jewelry learns to recognize and work around.
A Real Example from My Workbench
Take a look at this picture — yes, the thread is showing.
Why did it happen?
Because I used one shell that was just a little too small, and the hole wasn’t even. Such a tiny detail, but it left a gap where the thread peeked through.
✨So what do you do when this happens?✨
Take a moment — it happens sometimes, and that includes me.
• Check the shell. If it’s too small or the poke is off, swap it out.
• Adjust the order. Sometimes shells sit better in a different sequence.
• Worst case: pull back a little and restring. I know — big ouch — but patience always pays off.
• Use your fingers to guide each shell so the line wraps around like a tiny spiral. This helps keep the thread tucked in and the pattern smooth.
It’s these small details that make poepoe one of the most admired designs in 貝殻ピアス (shell earrings) and Niʻihau shell jewelry.
A Little Reminder for Yourself: Don’t Give Up
These aren’t factory beads — they’re natural shells, each with their own personality. That’s the beauty of Niʻihau shell jewelry: no two pieces will ever be exactly alike, and every “almost” moment is just another step in your learning.
Remember, this is handmade jewelry shaped by Mother Nature. The shells may not sit perfectly the first time, and that’s completely okay.
✨The secret is simple:✨
➡️practice, practice, and practice again.⬅️
Each time you finish a piece, you’ll discover something new — a small improvement, a better poke, a smoother stringing, or a technique that feels more natural in your hands.
Sometimes the answer is right in front of you — it just takes a little common sense, a little patience, and the courage to try. And when mistakes happen? Don’t let them stop you.
Learn from them.
Laugh at them if you can.
And move forward without repeating the same thing again and again.
You will get it. Every attempt brings you closer, and one day you’ll look at your finished poepoe and smile, knowing how far you’ve come.
And if you’d rather simply enjoy the beauty without all the trial and error, don’t forget to explore some of my own Hawaiian jewelry creations (ハワイアンジュエリー). I hope you’ll find something you truly love.
✨LEARN MORE — SHELLSHAWAII BLOGS✨
• Hawaiian shells
• Niʻihau shell styles
• Behind the scenes
• Beginner guides for Hawaiian shell jewelry
• Customer testimonials
• FAQ blogs
If you need more information, you can also read my blog Buyer’s Guide or please contact me anytime for further assistance.