In my last blog, Blog 9, I shared how incredibly tiny Kahelelani shells are — the little treasures often used in Niʻihau shell jewelry. If you’re new to Niʻihau shell jewelry (ニイハウ シェル ジュエリー) or Hawaiian seashells in general, I recommend starting here⬅️. It will help you learn what Kahelelani shells are, how they’re formed, and the colorful range they come in.

As we move along, I’ll also be writing more about other shells used in this art form, like the Momi and Laiki shells. Each has its own story, its own shades, and its own way of shaping the designs you see in Niʻihau jewelry (ハワイアンジュエリー). There’s so much more to explore.

And now, let’s circle back to one of the most famous questions that many people ask and even research about Niʻihau shell jewelry: Why is it so expensive?

If you’ve ever looked at a Niʻihau shell lei or pair of earrings and wondered why the price seems high, you’re not alone. These pieces are tiny, delicate, and so beautiful — but there’s more to the story. Let me share why these shells are often called the “diamonds of Hawaiʻi.” In fact, Niʻihau shells are the only shells in the world that can even be insured as gemstones — a true testament to their rarity and value.

☕ Shall We Find Out Together?

If we were sitting together right now, I’d probably smile before answering — because this is something I get asked often. The truth is, Niʻihau shells really are that rare and that special. Let me share a little more with you.

Niʻihau is sometimes called the Forbidden Island because it’s privately owned by the Robinson family, with very limited access to outsiders. The community there is very small — sometimes around 70 people, and at times even fewer. You can’t simply go there to collect shells, and even if you’re standing on the right beaches, the ocean doesn’t always give them up easily. And among the shells you do find, only a few are perfect enough to be used in jewelry. That’s the very beginning of why they’re so treasured, and why authentic Niʻihau shells (ニイハウ シェル) are held in such high respect.

➡️ If you’re curious about how I get my Niʻihau shells, you can learn more in Blog 8 

And then there are the colors. Some shells come in creamy natural tones or warm golden shades, but every so often you’ll come across deep burgundy, soft pink, rich red, green, or even jet black. Those rare shades are like little jewels of their own. What makes them even more special is how hard it is to find enough in the same size to make just one piece of jewelry. Imagine spending hours searching, only to come home with a small handful worth keeping. But when those shells finally come together in a lei or earrings, they create a kind of Hawaiian jewelry (ハワイアンジュエリー) unlike anything else.

The Work Behind Each Piece

Niʻihau shell jewelry (ニイハウ シェル ジュエリー) is truly a labor of love. Every shell has to be picked up by hand, cleaned, and gently prepared — the sand have to be removed, the tip trimmed, and a tiny hole poked. After that, each one is sorted by size and color, sometimes even paired to match, before the stringing can begin. And the stringing is always one shell at a time. They’re often smaller than a grain of rice, and many don’t make it through the process. It takes a lot of patience, but that’s also what makes the finished piece so meaningful.

Because the shells that come from Niʻihau are so rare — and you can’t simply go out and gather them yourself — artists like me who love this craft often have to purchase shells. The supply is very limited, and they can be expensive. You can’t always find every color you’d like either, since suppliers also need shells for their own work, and I respect that. Sometimes you just have to be grateful for what’s available and make the very best out of it.

So when I set the price for my jewelry, it reflects not only the time and love I put in, but also the cost of the shells themselves — their color, size, and quality — and how many imperfect ones are in each lot. For those who collect their own shells, the value is in the hours spent walking the beach and picking them up one by one. For artists like me, who also need to buy shells, there’s a permanent cost that becomes part of every creation.

If you’d like to see the difference this work makes, you can take a look at some of my finished Niʻihau shell jewelry (ハワイアンジュエリー)  or even explore my loose shell supplies (ニイハウ シェル)  if you’re curious about the raw materials before they’re strung. I will also written about the challenges of sorting and grading shells in my near future blogs  which might give you even more insight into just how much detail goes into every single piece.

More Than a Gemstone

Something that surprises a lot of people is that Niʻihau shells are the only shells in the world officially classified as gemstones by the Smithsonian Institution — and they can even be insured as such. That recognition shows just how rare and valuable they are, standing right alongside diamonds and pearls in the world of fine adornments.

And then there’s the cultural side. Niʻihau shell lei-making is a Hawaiian tradition that has been passed down for generations. It’s even protected by law — only pieces made here in Hawaiʻi with 100% Niʻihau shells can carry the name. That tells you how much it means to the people and the culture. If you’d like to know more about how I personally began this path, you can read about it in my journey into Niʻihau shell jewelry (ニイハウ シェル ジュエリー).

So yes, when you hear that a lei can cost thousands of dollars, it might sound surprising at first. But once you understand the rarity, the work, and the history carried in each piece, it starts to make sense. You’re not just buying shells — you’re holding onto a piece of Hawaiʻi’s heart. And when you look at a finished necklace or pair of earrings (ハワイアンジュエリー), you can truly feel the story woven into each strand.

To Answer Your Questions

It’s very personal to me. I am very attached with every piece I create, all the details I put into my work. From the moment I sort through the shells, to the time I sit down to poke and string them, I put my heart and focus into every step. I prefer to present my creations this way for now and hope you will like my work and find some of my designs that you will cherish for many years to come.

For me, Niʻihau shell jewelry (ニイハウ シェル ジュエリー) is more than just Hawaiian jewelry (ハワイアンジュエリー). It’s a connection to the ocean, to tradition, and to the beauty of Hawaiʻi Nei. Each strand feels like a small story of its own, and it brings me so much joy knowing that when you wear it, you carry a little piece of that story with you.

And before you go, I’d love to invite you to take a look at some of my finished jewelry  or even browse the loose shells (ニイハウ シェル)  that I offer for those who feel inspired to create on their own. You might also enjoy exploring a few more of my blogs — they’re written from the heart and full of stories, tips, and the little details that make this craft so special.

If you discover a piece or a story that makes you smile, I’d be so grateful if you shared it with a friend who loves Hawaiʻi too. That’s how the aloha spreads — one person at a time. ❤️

Much aloha,

Janjira!