Aloha and welcome to my workstation today, everyone.

Today my newest collection of Momi shells has just arrived, and they are still a little wet from their journey of Hawaiian sea. When I first receive them, I like to gently pour the shells into a bowl or a tray and let them sit for a while until they are completely dry.

Once the shells are dry, that’s when the real work begins.

In some of my past ShellsHawaii blogs, I shared how I grade my shells into A grade, B grade, C grade, and an imperfect group. Today I will be using the same method again as I begin sorting this new set of Niʻihau Momi shells that I just bought.

Sorting is always the first step before I begin planning any jewelry designs. One by one, I look closely at each shell, checking its size, shape, and condition before placing it into the proper group.

Now it’s time for me to begin sorting

At First Glance, What Do You Notice When You Look at This Photo?

From this picture, I would like you to take a closer look as we practice how to sort these Momi shells together.

What do you see?

How would you sort these Momi shells?

When many people first look at a group of Momi shells from Niʻihau, the first thing they notice is the color — soft creamy white shells, warm ivory tones, light gray shades, and beautiful brown spotted patterns. Each tiny shell was shaped naturally by the ocean over many years before finally reaching the beaches of Niʻihau Island. But when I look at these shells, I’m not only looking at the colors.

Most of the time, it is human nature that our eyes are first drawn to the darkest colors or any shells that look different from the rest. Those shells tend to catch our attention right away, so that is usually where I begin.

As I start sorting, I first pick out the darkest shells or the shells that immediately stand out. At the same time, I am also checking for cracks, chips, or holes that are not in the correct place.

What Should You Look for When Sorting Momi Shells?

Once the shells are spread out, I gently move them around and begin grouping them by size and condition.

Some shells are smooth and well shaped, while others may have small chips, worn edges, or tiny cracks. I also check if the shell body is complete, if the opening is in the right place, and whether the shell still holds its full natural shape.

 

Next, I compare the sizes of the shells and begin noticing the luster. These small details help determine whether the shell will be placed into the A grade, B grade, C grade, or imperfect shell group.

Sorting takes time. In most cases I will go through the shells three or four times to double-check everything before the shells are ready for creation or prepared for listing as shell supplies.

For some reason, the shells from this particular beach seem to include many fragile shells, so careful sorting becomes even more important when preparing shells for Niʻihau shell jewelry and Hawaiian seashell jewelry.

Why Careful Sorting Matters Before Creating Niʻihau Shell Jewelry

When working with Niʻihau shells, even a small imperfection can cause problems later during the jewelry-making process. These tiny shells have been used for generations to create traditional Niʻihau shell jewelry in Hawaiʻi.

Tiny cracks, chipped edges, thin shell tips, or shells that are already worn down can easily break when the shells are being poked or strung.

Even though these shells may still be beautiful, they may not be strong enough for detailed designs such as Pikake, Kipona, or Poepoe styles.

Sorting shells may look like a simple task, but it is one of the most important parts of preparing Niʻihau shells for jewelry making. Many people who are new to this art may simply see them as small seashells, but they are part of a long tradition of Hawaiian shell jewelry craftsmanship.

Before the design begins…

before the shells are strung…

before the pattern is created…

There is always this quiet moment of preparation.

Each shell is examined carefully and placed into its proper group. It is a slow process, but it is also part of the patience and respect behind the art of Niʻihau shell jewelry.

Finishing Up With Our Momi Shell Sorting Today

Now we are coming to the end of our work sorting day.

From today’s sorting, I found some very nice blue Momi shells, medium blue tones, and brown spotted shells. The rest are mostly off-white shells with a soft blue tint.

Some of the shells are A grade with very good luster, while others fall into the B grade and C grade groups. I also found some shells that are not full size but still have good luster. These can be very useful for practice work or for creating smaller jewelry pieces.

So far today we have learned and practiced using our eyesight to sort these Momi shells together. These shells will be used for my next creation. Some of them will be listed on my website as Niʻihau shell supplies, and some I will try to find time to pre-poke them, just in case anyone who is beginning their Niʻihau shell jewelry journey would like to give it a try and make their own jewelry.

I hope you are enjoying sorting shells with me today. Our workstation will always be full of joy and always something new to learn.

The more attention we give to these tiny shells and to the art of Niʻihau shell jewelry, the more appreciation we develop for the patience, care, and beauty behind this tradition.

I hope I will see you here again at my workstation next time. If you enjoyed reading my blogs, a little feedback or a message from you would be very much appreciated. You can always send it to me here.

With aloha,

Janjira